Marchon (Paris)

© Pier Gab

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No, this isn’t a new liberal political party, but rather a first-rate spot run by self-taught chef and former adman Alexandre Marchon. He wound up flying to new heights by opening this bistro designed by Akira Studio (blonde hardwood floors, terracotta-toned walls, a terrazzo bar…). The day we went for lunch, we enjoyed seasonal fare prepared by a talented hand on the €25 menu: an appetizer of crisp carrots and turnips dancing on a lacto-fermented carrot jus and buffalo milk ricotta – or coco de Paimpol beans with a Battaglione cucumber brunoise and a runny egg yolk; a generous serving of an excellent veal tartare prepared like a bagna càuda (Piedmont’s version of anchoiade) with a side of new potatoes; before a good chocolate rice pudding topped with a cocoa nib tuile. Worth noting: Alex also aims to impress at both lunch and dinner with five- or seven-course tasting menus – eg.: zucchini blossom tempura with a Parmesan emulsion; veal sweetbreads with clams and a jus de viande; matured Haitian chocolate ganache… The highly anticipated chicken and mashed potato lunches on Sunday are also worth trying! // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? There are 30 natural wines available by the bottle in all four colors: a Savoyard Jacquère from Sylvain Liotard (€7 a glass), a Hérault Carignan from Rémi Poujol (€28 a bottle), a Roussillon rosé from the Cave Apicole (€29), an orange Gewurztraminer from Geschickt (€65)…

PRICE: Set menus €25 and €39 (5 courses), dinner €39, €59 (5 courses) and €79 (7 courses).

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