Here at Margo, Keita Kitamura is part of the growing culinary tradition of foreign chefs who are tickling French cuisine with their super powers. As a student of Gagnaire in Paris and Narisawa in Japan, Kitamura explores Parisian appetites in an artsy and vegetal bistrosphere (rusted shutters, suspended and climbing plants), where a mystical darkness transcends his brutalist and izakaya-esque compositions: lively razor clams in a garam masala tempura with endives and satay; beetroot carpaccio with a twist from the explosive caper and pink peppercorn condiment; vibrant flash-seared mackerel with an extremely light parsnip purée, purple cabbage and sumac; before sweet French toast made with brioche and caramel (€9-13). And to help it all slide down, the team has set the bar very high, with a mix of natural gems (Les Houx 2015 from Landron, €33 a bottle; Cheverny 2015 from Le Clos du Tue-Bœuf, €6.50 a glass) and grands crus from Bordeaux (Saint-Émilion Château Malaurane 2013, €10 a glass). À la carte €33-42. // G.L.-P.