Tomy Gousset, the chef-proprietor of Tomy & Co and Hugo & Co, has just woken up this sleepy part of the 13th arrondissement with a big Mediterranean wave of freshness. At his new den with a faux-orangery feel (greenery cascading down from the ceiling, plants everywhere, blond wooden furniture), it’s his most loyal confidant, Tomoki Saito, who prepares the southern feasts: delicate Provençal sandwich spreads like preserved garlic, tapenade or eggplant caviar on pane carasau (an ultra-thin and crispy Sardinian bread); a slap of flavor via the za’atar-flavored bread, Kalamata olives, asparagus slivers, parsley, preserved tomatoes and pecorino; a hearty bacalhau à Brás – a cod brandade with olives and chorizo; before a crazy panna cotta bringing together fresh rhubarb, orange blossom and grains of puffed rice. // F.P.
FEELING THIRSTY? Mediterranean wines: a Moroccan Syrah from Alain Graillot (€6.50 a glass), a Portuguese white Douro from Proeza (€25 a bottle) or Hierà, a Sicilian red from Carlo Hauner (€25).
PRICE: Set menus €20 (lunch), menu €38 (lunch and dinner).