Le Fooding Guide’s Best bar à délices of 2014
This place has been packed since it was first opened in 2013 by the Quixotic Projects group (Hero, Les Grands Verres, Candelaria, Glass), but the Mary Celeste can always count on its crew of bartenders to balance out its well-crafted pirate booty. Amongst its creations: a kissable Mary vs Willy, with Pineau-des-Charentes, Martini Bitter, tonic and Marolo grappa (€9); or a wilding Fureur de Vaincre, made with Engenho da Vertente cachaça, lime, a herbaceous infusion, passion fruit purée and Champagne (€12). And make sure to nibble on something so you don’t end up sinking: angelic deviled eggs with mayonnaise, ginger, pickled red onion, fried rice and chives (€7); or an intense hanger steak tartare pimped out with a fermented tofu sauce, curried almonds, pickled cherries and chives (€12); plus a verbena panna cotta topped with nectarines, blackberries, blueberries, hibiscus syrup, crumble topping, oxalis and pistachios for dessert (€8). There are also a dozen wines served by the glass available: a white Morave from Milan Nestarec (€8), a Tuscan red from the Domaine de Coccirotti (€11), etc. Cocktails €7-14, plates €7-13. // D.C.