In French, “massale” refers to the selection of the best seeds from one harvest to the next. And “selection” is what it’s all about in the kitchens of this neo-bistro (cast iron columns, mismatched chairs, bare tables), where Finnish chef Marlo Snellman (ex-Frenchie and Verjus) only works with impeccable products. The day we went, the chef worked his signature luminous touch on the €22 set menu: incredible miniature leeks, mussels and a dill dressing; yellow pollack brandade with pickled shallots – or a smooth duck breast with green cabbage and capers, before a good quince cheesecake (which unfortunately had been orphaned of its crispy cookie crust). At night, the menu gets even more fleshed out (6 appetizers, 3 mains) and the house’s standards get taken up a notch – brill fillet with accordion potatoes, broccoletti and a bordelaise sauce (€22); Ibaïama pork chops, green cabbage and salsify (€27). And to wash it all down: Ardèche wines in red or white produced by Sylvain Bock (€6) or impressive natural labels (like Amfora from the Domaine de L’Obrière for €34), dug up by Arthur Chiapello and Thomas Chapelle, the two co-founders, who worked previously at Zébulon and Pirouette. Lunch: set menus €17-22. Dinner: à la carte €32-46. Wine bar on Saturday evenings. // P.-H.B.