The maynats (“boys” in the local Béarn patois) are back in town! We’re talking about Gautier Alvarez, formerly of L’Auberge Basque, and Jonathan Vallenari, a pastry chef who worked at L’Aupiho in Baux-de-Provence, of course. Their landing point? The old Chez Canaille bistro in the heart of the historic Hédas quarter, which they’ve given a sleek, wood-heavy makeover – say goodbye to the wine barrels and gingham tablecloths! The night we went, their €37 menu featured: lively trout marinated in gin with creamy smoked avocado, pickled radish, gin sorbet, a seed cracker and oxalis petals; very fresh line-caught hake with cecina, spelt, oyster mushrooms, an xipister emulsion (a piment d’Espelette sauce) and mustard shoots; before a very light dessert of peach marinated in sweet vinegar with a lime crumble, almond cream, peach-raspberry sorbet and marigolds. // P.L.
FEELING THIRSTY? A dry Jurançon from the Domaine Haugarot (€4.50 a glass), a white Savoie from Giachino (€27 a bottle), a Morgon from Lapierre (€45)…
PRICE: Menus €20 (weekday lunch), €37 and €48 (dinner). Food and wine pairings €18-29.
