Melt 17

Here’s the latest addition to the Melt family! Camped out in the Batignolles neighborhood, the well-dressed space (green walls, Mondrian-esque compositions, camel benches, school chairs) has the same smoker as its older brother in the 11^th arrondissement. That’s where the star meats (Black Angus brisket, pulled pork, half-chickens) bronze for hours over a low flame, under the supervision of Texan pitmaster Jeffrey Howard. On our aluminum platter the day we went for lunch: some addictive chicken hot wings covered in a Thai sauce (€11) with incredible fries (€4.50); an excellent broccoli salad with cranberries and smoked lardons, served with cornbread and honey butter (€6); before a milk chocolate chip cookie for dessert (€3). Don’t forget – all the house meats can also be prepared as burgers (from €12 to €14.50). To drink, there’s Lone Star beer (€5 for 330 ml), an anonymous Côtes-du-Rhône (€4.50 a glass), and a red Côtes-du-Roussillon from Walden (€27 a bottle). Set menus €16-18 (weekday lunch), kids’ menus €10 (weekday lunch) and €13.50 (Saturday and Sunday). À la carte €18-41. // J.G.