In the Paris-Texas BBQ family, the very cool Melt (butcher shop tiles, bare bricks, plywood tables) sets things ablaze! And for good reason, because owners Jean and Antoine have put Jeffrey Howard in charge of the “pit” (a gigantic meat smoker). He’s one of the best American smokers, and came all the way from the Pecan Lodge in Dallas! Under his supervision, the meats (French chicken and pork, black Angus beef…) slow-cook over oak (four to 15 hours at 100°C) before being plated on aluminum platters or in burgers. For us, the day we went for lunch: incredible beef brisket (€13.50) served with homemade fries (€4); and addictive spare ribs cooked for six hours (€12). For dessert, there’s an unstoppable lemon curd with whipped cream and Breton cookies (€5). To drink: Lone Star (€5 for 330 ml), Blue Moon IPA (€6 for 330 ml), organic apple-pineapple-pear Marcel juice (€5 for 250 ml), Chardonnay from the Domaine de L’Orgeril (€4.50 a glass) or a Costières-de-Nîmes from the Domaine de La Patience (€30 a bottle). Set menus €15-17 (lunch), à la carte €17 to €23.50. // J.G.