Chef Olivier Bellin made a name for himself in Brittany at L’Auberge des Glazicks, and now he’s putting his weight behind this Finistère-inspired spot on rue du Faubourg-Montmartre with blonde wood and blue skies. The seafood street food menu has been enriched this year with a haddock banh mi (carrots, black radish, cream of mackerel with seaweed and a touch of cider vinegar, €7.90), octopus fish ’n’ chips (€15.50) and tuna tartare (€15.90), all served with well-made sides like the irresistible crinkle-cut fries or rice with barberries. For us, the day we went, after a cream of mackerel with lime (€6), we decided to remain faithful to the fish ’n’ chips with a gossamer-like breading (€14.90), served with a spicy yogurt, tartar or ketchup-ginger sauce. And we tested and approved an “M in Black” burger, with a squid ink bun, pickled radish and some lovely yellow pollack in a seaweed breading (€14.90); before a more forgettable and overly sweet lemon-praline pudding (€4.50). To drink, there’s Félicité beer on tap (€4 for a half-pint), a delicious Anjou Chenin from Ogereau (€7 a glass) or gin-based cocktails, like the Mersea Beach with an Iranian dried lime- and buckwheat-infused gin, Angostura bitters, rosemary and buckwheat groats (€12). In addition to the normal menu, at night there are a few tempting tapas: bluefin tuna tartare; trout rillettes; Belle Iloise tinned sardines; pollack accras, cream of mackerel (from €5 to €9.90). Cocktails €10-12. Set menus from €10.90 to €15.90. À la carte €15-25. // G.D.