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Midi là-haut

Midi là-haut (Sète)

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“Midi là-haut, Midi sans mouvement”… This famous verse from local poet Paul Valéry sets the tone and pays homage to the marine cemetery visible below this Mediterranean spot. Seated on the peaceful terrace in the shady garden of the brutalist museum dedicated to the poet, radiant plates trussed up by Nathalie Richin (ex-Bonne Maison) file out. The day we went for lunch: small fried red mullet like candies from the sea and accompanied by a sour cream dip; a soothing octopus salad with olives and lemon; a curious Iranian omelet that’s a little like an herbed flan; a refreshingly fun gazpacho; a very simple slice of cold roasted veal with caponata and anchovies; before a chocolate, chocolate nib and olive oil ganache. // A.A.

FEELING THIRSTY? Smart drinks: local lager La Gorge Fraîche (€5 for 330 ml), good homemade mint syrup (€2), a natural Chardonnay from the Domaine de Bon Augure (€4 a glass), a very drinkable Syrah from Mylène Bru (€25 a bottle).

PRICE: Plates €5-22.

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