2015 Guide best restaurant
While both managing and cooking at their second restaurant Mampuku, Gil Elad, Arnaud Lahaut and Ayako Ota (a team with a golden résumé: ex-Passard, Barbot, Aizpitarte, etc.) continue stirring up Bordeaux’s foodosphere at their original spot, Miles, named Le Guide Fooding’s Best Restaurant of 2015. The night we went, prepared live in their kitchen/showroom, the five dishes on the prix-fixe menu (€48) were each more joyful than the last: starting with an absolutely incredible ravioli tucked into a volcanic mixture of egg yolk, artichoke and vanilla, with a light coconut emulsion! Followed by flash-seared octopus (a little over-cooked), rolled up in a fragrant tomato pesto with a black rice crumble and a divine smoked garlic mayonnaise; before roasted monkfish cheeks with a fennel-buckwheat salad, and lamb saddle cooked in a breadcrumb crust, with a roasted lemon, honey and wild garlic jelly. And don’t forget about the final mile: a very light rhubarb and hibiscus jam with a cottony white chocolate mousse. To drink? A Chorey-lès-Beaune white wine from the Domaine André (€9 a glass), a good organic Chinon, Les Puits Danaé, from the Domaine Lambert (€36 a bottle) or, why not, a Saint-Émilion Tertre Roteboeuf 2006 to add a few more miles to the odometer (€400!). Menus €27-32 (lunch) and €48 (dinner). // G.LeP.