Mimi (Paris)

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Brick walls and floral tablecloths, a framed photo of Totò (the Neapolitan idol of Italian comedy who looks like Buster Keaton), a recipe book in Neapolitan, dried Le Chicche di Giò pasta… There’s no doubt about it, Mimi is firmly rooted in Campania! Adorned with a beautiful headband, Giulia Guarino passionately displays a short menu (three appetizers, three mains, three desserts) from behind the colorful tiled counter. The day we went for lunch: a surprising pasta cresciuta (plump, light, crisp beignets topped with pesto, over a bed of carrots); marvelous calamarata gamberoni e pistacchi (pasta shaped like calamari rings in a creamy shrimp/pistachio sauce); before a panna cotta titillated by verbena and peach for the final note. // D.C.

FEELING THIRSTY? The are historic vintages from Campania in the window display: a white Fiano 2015 from Maison Baal (€7 a glass), Novaserra from Greco di Tufo (€38 a bottle) or Taurasi 2013 Radici (€55) from the Mastroberardino estate.

PRICE: À la carte €29-39.

Late-night munchies?

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