restaurant

Mingway

Mingway (Pantin)

© Antoine Allain

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Here’s to a little gentleness in a brutalist world! Amongst a hubbub of choreographed bodies, Eva Jaurena has opened Mingway inside the Centre National de la Danse’s concrete core. Along with her partners Florent Ciccoli and Greg Back (Café du Coin, Les Pères Populaires), the founder of the Ernest food solidarity network makes food and drink joyfully jerk about. Inside his windowed kitchen, Léo Aït Bahaddou (ex-Buffet) is tasked with delighting guests for next to nothing, seated in both the cathedral-like dining room and on the immense terrace along the Canal de l’Ourcq. The day we went for lunch, €16 earned us: elegant pointy cabbage sprinkled with pine nuts and Parmesan; a devilishly good free-range pork chop with roasted parsnips and an onion/apple/white wine compote; before an incredible chocolate, pecan and caramel brownie. At night, classy tapas take over: cauliflower smoked over thyme with beetroot ketchup; lamb brioche with a mint and yogurt sauce; French toast cake with tonka bean whipped cream… It’s worth noting that an Ernest chef is invited every Saturday to shake up the brunchtime tradition. // Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s organic Gallia beer (€4 for 330 ml) and reliable wines: Le Marmot, a Gard red from La Grange Saint André (€5 a glass), a Rackham from Laurent Cazottes in the Tarn (€24 a bottle) or a white Languedoc from Le Mas des Agrunelles (€24),etc.

PRICES: Dish of the day €10, set menus €13-16 (lunch). Tapas ⁄5-10 (dinner). Sandwiches €6. Brunch €22.

Le Fooding’s 2022 Guide is fresh out of the oven!

What’s on the menu this year? A brand-new selection of 200 restaurants, bars and bedrooms across France, articles sprinkled throughout the magazine, the taste of the times distilled down to its purest form in our highly anticipated award’s list and, for the very first time, two new guides to the country’s best stand-out shops and spirited cellars!

2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover
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Le Fooding is a print and digital guide to all the restaurants, chefs, bars, stylish hotels and B&Bs that make up the “taste of the times,” plus an annual awards list for new establishments across France, a series of gastronomic events, a tool that allow you to make reservations at some fantastic bistros, and an agency specialized in event planning, content production and consulting… In short, something to keep you on your toes at all times!

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