Under the auspices of a mysterious Monsieur P – his fictional alter ego – Florent Poulard (who has worked most notably for Daniel Boulud and Alain Passard) has burst out onto Lyon’s culinary scene. In a tastefully decorated house located at the foot of the Croix-Rousse, his cuisine combines globetrotting touches with a visceral love for the French countryside. And the results will likely leave you speechless. The night we went, we were treated to an astonishing neo-terroir-ist menu for €38: to begin, there was a well-behaved chicken egg with tangy pickled cauliflower; followed by a classic chuck steak with caramelized salsify; then an old-fashioned Bleue d’Artois potato given a youthful boost from the magical effects of two types of garlic (elephant and black); before a chestnut, meringue and Chartreuse surprise to end the meal. To accompany this brief road trip, fill up the tanks with deeply rooted wines, like a white Sancerre from François Crochet (€8 a glass) or an AOP Cornas 2014 from Alain Verset (€48 a bottle). Lunch menus €22 and €26. Dinner menus €38 and €48. À la carte €35-49. // M.Sc.