Leaving behind the shadows of its old location right near La Mère Brazier, Monsieur P has moved its bourgeois furniture to Place des Célestins, inside the former Chez Francotte. You’ll still find the same wall mouldings, views of the Théâtre des Célestins and uniformed waiters pampering guests, alongside the young chef Florent Poulard (who used to work at L’Arpège in Paris and under Boulud in New York), who executes a precise, time-honored and none-too-daring score using first-rate ingredients. The day we went for lunch, the menu featured: a fresh salad of haricots verts, yellow zucchini ribbons, arugula, ricotta and pistachios; a perfectly seared haddock fillet with a chickpea purée, pickled radishes, young kohlrabi, peas and a tomato-zucchini sauce vierge; before the dessert of the day, a coconut combo (ice cream, mousse and cookie) decorated with a few dollops of raspberry and lemon cream.
FEELING THIRSTY? Terret, a striking macerated Languedoc white from Léon Barral (€12 a glass), a Morgon vieilles vignes from Guy Breton (€8) and a few treasures served by the bottle, like the famous Mont Blanc Brut Zéro Dosage, a Vin-de-Savoie from the Domaine Belluard (€65 a bottle), Kopines!, a Jura white from the Domaine Ganevat (€54) or a rare Coteaux-Bourguignons Gamay from the Domaine Prieuré-Roch (€65).
PRICE: Menus €28-32 (lunch), €58-98 (dinner), à la carte €54-58.