Warning: this establishment was tested before the reign of Covid 19… Certain information may no longer be up to date in regards to the current situation: hours, menu, prices…
Florent Poulard (ex-Passard and Savoy) is like a salmon, swimming upstream against the current of what’s fashionable. In a rather stiff setting (upholstered armchairs, still life paintings, bread served with tongs, blistering storytelling around the alter-hero Mister P), he mounts post-modern cuisine imbued with a sense of purity. The lunch menu was all the proof we needed, as it truly went above and beyond: mackerel cooked in salt and baby leeks supporting a bergamot sabayon; elegant hake with lightly grilled skin, a whipped fumet and an utterly simple orange and carrot purée; before a deconstructed tiramisu that hit the spot – or, for a little something extra, a Nutella-esque chocolate-hazelnut combo presented like a cookie, with sauce, ice cream, a tuile and cream. // A.S.
FEELING THIRSTY? Hoppy Fine Equipe beer (€6 for 330 ml) and natural wines: a Bourgueil red from the Bretons (€8 a glass); Argile, a Vin-des-Allobroges white from the Domaine des Ardoisières (€38 a bottle); or even a Cornas from Matthieu Barret (€230).
PRICE: Menus €22-26 (lunch), €48 and €58 (dinner), à la carte €48-54.