Montezuma (Paris)

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Lovers of nat’ rock and indie wine, Théophile de Pananster and Louis Mesana (formerly of Le Verre Volé) have dedicated their cool buvette to Neil Young and his legendary album Zuma. In the space filled with wood and metal tables, arabesque tomette tiles and tinkered-together tube lamps, we had an explosively flavorful meal the other day! It kicked off with a small brioche bun made that very morning by chef Julie Della Faille (ex-Verre Volé as well!), packed with an XL slice of Jura sausage, Comté, rémoulade, endives, cornichon and a lovely drizzling of sauce gribiche… Next, a big bowl of Vichy carrots and lardons made a special guest appearance, followed by a giant chocolate mousse for the dessert solo. Also on the lunch menu: a veggie plate (like the risotto with three varieties of mushroom) or the dish of the day – that particular day, it was skate grenobloise. At night, Julie takes things a little higher (squid tempura with charred lemon; scallops, bacon, black trumpet mushrooms; lamb saddle with artichokes barigoule…), nobody cuts the sound and the plates dance with some really beautiful labels, even in the vaulted basement… FYI: there are DJ sets on Friday and Saturday nights. // Aïtor Alfonso

FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a really sharp wine playlist: a punk rock Aude Chenin from the Domaine Plô Notre Dame (€6 a glass), a chart-topping macerated Alsace from Jean Ginglinger (€30 a bottle), a symphonic red Auvergne from Fred Gounan (€70 a bottle)…

PRICE: Set menus €12 (bun), €14 (vegetarian), €15 (dish of the day). Bun €10.50 (lunch and dinner), small plates €8-15 (dinner).

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