Mulino Mulè

Mulino Mulè (Paris)

© Cédric Casanova

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In their mill/neighborhood restaurant with craggy bricks, reupholstered benches and pulley lights, Cédric Casanova (the owner of La Tête dans les Olives) and Roberto Rispoli (ex-chef of Le Royal Monceau) shine a light on the heirloom grains of Sicilian farmer Marco Mulè. The concept? Every Monday, various flours and semolina are ground in house before being used to make the incredible focaccia and fresh pasta (casarecce, fusilli, rigatoni, spaghetti, linguine…), which you can take to go or wolf down at the restaurant. Served à la carte the night we went: a lovely preserved artichoke salad seasoned with coriander and Parmesan shavings; a delicious eggplant Milanese, with the refreshing addition of chard; then, for the pasta fresca of the day, some utterly simple linguine with sweet Datterino tomatoes, topped with ricotta salata; before a creamy lemon and olive oil mousse for dessert. // O.J. and D.S.

FEELING THIRSTY? Sicilian wines: a Cataratto from the Cantina Giacco (€4 a glass), a sparkling white wine from Antichi Vinai (€32 a bottle), Il Funambulo Sicilian, a Nero-d’Avola from La Cantina Giacco, made with grapes from Marco Mulè (€22).

PRICE: À la carte €23-38.

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