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Mulino Mulè

Restaurant Mulino Mulè in ParisMulino Mulè (Paris) - © Cédric Casanova

In this neighborhood mill rigged out like a faubourgeois atelier (timeworn bricks, reupholstered benches, flour-dusted machines, hanging lightbulbs), focaccia and pasta go hand in hand! Sicilian blood brothers Cédric Casanova (the formidable owner of La tête dans les olives) and chef Robert Rispoli (ex-Royal Monceau) have teamed up with farmer Marco Mulè, from whom they import heirloom wheat cultivated near Corleone, turning it first into flour and then into sublime fresh pasta – fusilli, rigatoni, linguine, lasagna, taken to go or gobbled up in house. The day we went for lunch, seated between the stoves and the mill, the executive chef Marina Kerbytska (ex-Royal Monceau) treated us to a salty tomato salad with olives, capers, anchovies and lentils (€6), followed by an opulent bowl of experimental chestnut flour pasta, with eggplant and pecorino aged for 24 months (€10), before a juicy slice of Sicilian melon for dessert (€4). To drink, there are two table wines to choose from (white Viognier Catarratto for €4.50 a glass, and Nero d’Avola for €5.50), or sparkling green mandarin lemonade from Polara (€4). Menu €30 (dinner), à la carte €10-20 (served all day long). // A.A. 

Getting there

Restaurant Mulino Mulè
25, rue Sainte-Marthe
TEL: +33 9 54 75 92 07
Subway: Belleville, Goncourt, Colonel Fabien