Pierre Bouko Levy (now at Shouk) has now handed over the reins to Diana and Sofia, who you’ll find under the watchful and complicit eye of Cyril Dedieu (ex-Bügelski), behind the green ceramic-tiled kitchen bar adorned with bouquets of wild herbs. Sitting on one of the green olive benches, we feel the soul of Tel Aviv come alive as we savor flame-charred vegetables (carrots, fennel), an egg in a nest of spinach and labneh (€7), smoked bottarga taramasalata (€8), lively lamb shawarma (€15, or €10 for a sandwich), homemade bread that you can dip enthusiastically into the warm mesabaha (a variety of hummus topped with tomatoes, €7), or even French toast with strawberries and vanilla whipped cream (€6). To wash it all down: a Moroccan Casablanca lager (€6 for 330 ml), a Tinto Amalaya from the Calchaquiés valleys (€8 a glass, €35 a bottle) or an analeptic lemon Mulko – homemade mint syrup, lemon, ginger, sparkling water, €4. Set menu €12-16 (weekday lunch), plates €6-17, desserts €5-6. // N.K.