Despite the fact that the founders (Nathaly + Nadège = NaNa) recently left to pursue other horizons, this lovely “Scandichic” spot near Bastille hasn’t lost any of its intransigence. Behind the very graphic black stone bar, chef Vincent Joyaux lights up the very best of French products, selected by the new owners, Anaïs and Nicolas. The day we went for lunch, there was a surf ’n’ turf menu for €28: cheeky sausage and chard; perfect cuttlefish from Saint-Jean-de-Luz, lardo from Venice and vitelotte potatoes prepared as both a mash and as chips; before a baked apple that hadn’t been baked enough, but was saved by a gourmet Timut peppercorn sorbet and salted butter caramel. To perfect all that, in addition to a beautiful selection of very clean wines (MuscadetAmphibolite from Jo Landron for €34, Syrah Collines-Rhodaniennes from David Reynaud for €25), there are two wines served by the glass every day (€8), like the very delightful biodynamic Mâcon-VIllages from Julien Guillot. At night, the menu gets even fancier with the same seafood touches (for example, Iberian pork secreto, praire clams and roasted leeks) and a dessert that can hold its own. Set menu options €23-28 (lunch), à la carte €40-44 (dinner). // P.-H.B.