Just listening to Giovanni Napolitano describe his delicious dishes with a voice as gravely as Mount Vesuvius, it’s only natural that we head to Naturellement. Yet, rest assured, in his cheeky bistro with hints of Campania, the plates are more than just talk. The day we went for lunch: an oozy bufala mozzarella and a thin chiffonnade of San Daniele ham (€10); a wonderfully crisp artichoke salad with ribbons of carrot, radish, Parmesan and olive oil from Abruzzo (€13); an alluring bass carpaccio with yellow and green zucchini, capers, lemon and ginger (€18); hand-cut veal tartare with sorrel, mustard, scallions and green olives (€22); and a tiramisu that’ll bring tears to your eyes (€8). To drink, the often-natural Italian wine collection should keep you happy: a mineral Roncús Collio Goriziano from the Frioul archipelago (€6 a glass), a fruity Pecorino from Marina Palusci (€32), an elegant Etna Rosso from Graci (€42), etc. À la carte €31-43. // T.M.