In his diaphanous den with an almost holy feel to it (immaculate walls and tablecloths, zen lighting), Hideki Nishi sanctifies our palettes with his canonic menus. The day we went for lunch, the plates of the €45 menu shimmered like summer snowflakes: stunning veal tartare with a lacy halo of potatoes, yellow and green tomatoes, miniature chanterelle mushrooms and broad beans over a haddock cream; Arctic char that was both tender and crispy, with a triptych of porcini mushrooms – dried, in a sauce and as a purée; black Angus hanger steak tenderized over the famous Japanese binchotan charcoal, with melt-in-your-mouth eggplant and marinated red peppers; before a chilled cardamom nougat with orange tuile, pudding and whipped cream, plus rosemary meringues for the stellar finale. In the glasses? Everything you need for transubstantiation: a straightforward organic white Sancerre from François Crochet (€10 a glass), a dynamite biodynamic Alsace Pinot noir from Valentin Zusslin (€11), a white Saint-Aubin from the Domaine Marc Colin et Fils (€85 a bottle)… Menus €45 (lunch), €100 and €130 (dinner). // T.M.