There’s no beef stroganoff and no Red Army at Neva – the only thing Russian about Neva Cuisine isits proximity to rue de Saint-Pétersbourg. And its ambiance as well, slightly drab at first glance…. But don’t judge the has-been-esque 90s interior too harshly: the Mexican chef, Beatriz Gonzalez, and her man Yannick Tranchant (a pastry chef), who both used to work at La Grande Cascade, make sparkling dishes. Served à la carte the day we went for lunch: Japanese-inspired bonito marinated in beer with daikon turnips and black radish prepared like a celery rémoulade, boosted with citrus confit; classic veal sweetbreads grilled in a Big Green Egg, barbecue-style and served with roasted parsnip; and for a beautiful conclusion to the meal, a good old Madong chocolate soufflé, with cacao sorbet pimped out with lime. And for something good but not excessive to drink, there’s a nice selection of wines served by the glass, including a Sauvignon from the Domaine Gayda (€7) or a Chinon from the Domaine Grosbois (€7), along with some interesting bottles, like the Jasnières, Les Rosiers, from the Domaine de Bellivière (€49 a bottle). Menus €38-45 (lunch and dinner), à la carte €54-64. // C.C.