Pastel seats, delicate cane panels between monumental mirrors and columns… After a brand-new facelift, Neva’s dining room leaves even more room for Beatriz Gonzalez’s cuisine to shine. After her time at Lucas Carton (during the Senderens period), the Mexican chef was in full form the day we went for lunch. For us, on the “grand” lunch menu: generous octopus in a miso-shiitake glaze, with coco de Paimpol beans, cilantro, radishes and a fine tomato coulis; high-flying flavors via veal sweetbreads glazed in an apple and veal jus, served with grilled scallions and red kuri squash caressed by a silky potato-garlic emulsion and a light toasted almond sauce (+€6); before a Guanaja chocolate sphere around a revisited Belle-Hélène pear, warmed up in the dining room with hot chocolate cream sauce (+€3.50). // V.Z.
FEELING THIRSTY? Psaume, a lovely Rhône white from the Domaine du Père Benoît that was lively and fruity, almost saline (€9 a glass); Le Vivier, a Cheverny red from the Domaine des Huards (€36 a bottle); Clos du Prieuré, a Vougeot white from the Domaine de la Vougeraie (€115), etc.
PRICE: Menus €36-42.