Two years ago, Eric Vo-Van transformed his lovely Vietnamese restaurant into a sophisticated bistro with mirrors, a big wooden table d’hôte and a windowed kitchen… Inside, working alone in the kitchen, the “peasant” chef (nhà-quê in Vietnamese) puts a Vietnamese twist on the four seasons, all while banishing glutamate. The day we went for lunch, seated on the terrace with a view of Square Gardette, it resulted in: crispy pork spring rolls (€5 for four); puffy ban cuon crepes with ground pork and black mushrooms (€7 for four); a delicious pho in a light broth (€10); or even a very good beef satay with Thai basil, ginger, lemongrass, soy beans and a yuzu sauce (€18). As for the desserts, the house knows how to win you over: creamy tapioca pearls with coconut milk and banana (€5), or black sesame crème brûlée (€5). To wash it all down, there’s Saigon beer (€5.80) and green, white, blue, red and black teas, starting at €4.80. Set menu €15-20 (lunch), à la carte €23-33. // J.G.