Jean-Nobuki Rémon has been harmoniously combining Japanese heritage with Loire customs in this zenifying setting since 2013: Japanese Noren curtains, a lacquered dresser, a yukata kimono displayed on the wall and an open kitchen. And you’ll find him in the latter, sending out mouthwatering Nipponese bites in compartmentalized bento boxes at lunch (an assortment of grated cabbage, tamagoyaki omelet and shimmering pickles; light salmon and vegetable tempura on a bed of rice; comforting miso soup), while his chirashi bowls put on a show with scallops, sea bream and salmon, all fanned out raw. On Friday nights only (“family life obliging,” says Jean-Nobuki, apologetically), the menu gets even more elaborate, and you can adjust it depending on how hungry you are: tuna tataki with sweet white miso; chicken tempura with asparagus and nori; breaded veal in tonkatsu sauce; apple cooked in Japanese plum liqueur with ginger ice cream; red beans cooked in sugar cane syrup from Okinawa and black sesame or green tea ice creams. // T.V.X.
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s a short but winning drink list: a Vouvray from the Domaine Huet (€6 a glass), Galichets, a Bourgueil from the Domaine de la Chevalerie (€28 a bottle) or a Kinobi gin from Kyoto (€8.50 for 40 ml).
PRICE: Bento €19.50 and chirashi €25.50 (lunch), menus €39-54 (dinner).
