Noglu Marais

Restaurant Noglu Marais in ParisNoglu Marais (Paris) - © Matthieu Jaunia-Dallier

The stylish apostle of gluten-free living, Noglu has multiplied its cool cafés in Paris (2nd and 7th arrondissements) and New York (1266 Madison Ave, New York, NY 10128). The latest address presents a new challenge for its founder, Frédérique Jules: eroticize gluten-free cuisine! With, for the décor, the handsome designer Mathieu Lehanneur (a white terrazzo counter, mouse-grey benches, organic light fixtures, miniature botanical cascades), and for the food, the brilliant Tsuyoshi Miyazaki, dispatched from the very gastronomic Passage 53 (a co-partner in the venture). Who made an impressive meal the day we went for lunch, with Johnny Cash playing in the background. On the €24 menu: a Botticellian crown of beets sprinkled with raspberries, cashews, purple oxalis and Gorgonzola for a taste of spring in wintertime; an oceanic yellow pollack and sautéed Brussels sprouts, with a briny mussel and cabbage sauce, watercress, a parsley-anchovy dip, complemented by a lively little bowl of multicolored carrots confit, hazelnuts, raw cream and a carrot-citrus emulsion; then, for a lovely ending to the meal, an excellent “Pana coco” with mango, pineapples, cane sugar, topped with a cloud of lemongrass-infused coconut whipped cream. And there’s plenty to drink as well: La Champine, a red Rhone Syrah from Jean-Michel Gérin (€5), L’Anglore “Vaussières,” a white Rhone wine from Eric Pfifferling (€35), and Juice Lab juices (€6.50)…. At lunch, set menu options €20 or €24 (your choice between: three appetizers including one vegan one, three mains including one vegan course, and four desserts). At dinner, count on spending between €30 to €35. Brunch and tearoom on the weekends. // Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier

Getting there

Restaurant Noglu Marais
38, rue de Saintonge
TEL: +33 1 42 71 15 34
Subway: Filles du Calvaire, Oberkampf