After the dearly missed Ô Divin Buttes-Chaumont closed in 2015, opening three boutiques in Belleville instead (including a brand new fish shop at 118 rue de Belleville), Rheda and Naoufel Zaïm have set up their new version of Ô Divin in the rapidly evolving 17th arrondissement. On one side, you’ll find a wine bar antechamber stuffed full of raw milk cheeses, plus some excellent homemade sausages and boudin. And on the other, there’s a paired down restaurant with an open kitchen (white walls, 60s furniture), where young chefs send out delightful neo-bistro cuisine. The day we went for lunch, the €23 menu didn’t leave anything up to chance: shredded oxtail and potatoes tickled with capers from Pantelleria; classic veal sweetbread with little pieces of lightly salted herring and crisp green asparagus (+€6); and finally, a voluptuous Paris-Brest, if you really feel like pigging out! At night, the menu gets even more sophisticated: octopus, beetroot and smoked mozzarella (€14); bluefin tuna mi-cuit (that was killed using the ikejime method) paired with a chickpea purée (€25); roasted suckling lamb shoulder with seasonal vegetables (€40 for two); and a chilled blood orange dessert (€9). To drink, expect living wines: a white Languedoc from Les Foulards Rouges (€4 a glass), a Minervois from Jean-Baptiste Sénat (€32 a bottle), a Givry from the Domaine Joblot (€55), etc. Set lunch menu for €19 and prix-fixe menu for €23 (Sundays, it’s free-range chicken and fries for €15). Dinner à la carte €39-55. // G.D.