Ober Mamma

Ober Mamma (Paris)

© Renaud Cambuzat

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Four years after opening, this blockbuster from the Big Mamma group (Mamma Primi, Popolare, La Felicità…) still puts on a show that’s a cross between Italian coolness and exaggerated hospitality. The night we went, we got to choose between three ambiances: the terrace for sharing some impeccable antipasti (spoonfuls of stracciatella, smoked mozza fritta) or a lovely burrata-pesto pizza; in the spectacular backroom (a windowed ceiling, a massive tree in the middle of it, open kitchens) for eating a plate of mafalde with mascarpone and truffles, and some impressive linguine carbonara with guanciale and pecorino; before a short stop at the bar to sip on a Bellini Spritz (prosecco, white peach, guava and raspberry) while savoring a surprising limonemisu – a tiramisu with an Amalfi lemon twist. // T.V.X.

FEELING THIRSTY? There are well-made cocktails (€8-12) and transalpine wines: a Chardonnay from Noelia Ricci in Emilie-Romagne (€6 a glass), an Illuminati red from the Abruzzo (€27 a bottle), a prosecco from Luca Ricci (€29)…

PRICE: Antipasti €7-14, pasta €12-18, pizzas €10-18, desserts €7-8.

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