At the end of a traboule passageway, you’ll find this cute, light and airy bistro, decorated at random but with tact: a stainless steel bar, cement tiles, a 70s buffet, Formica tables, string light bulbs… Formerly the “Café Cousu,” the new Odessa Comptoir, run by brothers Antoine and Mathieu Kochen, seduces us as much with its beautiful selection of natural wines (a Chardonnay Saint-Savin from Valentin Morel at €6.50 a glass, a Môl from Patrick Bouju at €25 a bottle, La Boudinerie from Noëlla Morantin at €31, etc.) as with its charcuterie and cheese platters (€10), empanadas (beef, duck and vegetable, €6 for all three), pizzas on Thursday nights (€12), and the lunch option, a sure bet, made by Shina Camargo (ex-Café Cousu, €17). The day we went, she treated us to a perfect leek-mushroom quiche with mixed greens, a beautiful forkbeard with pesto, carrots, sweet potatoes and ratatouille, before a lovely slice of roasted pineapple served hot with vanilla syrup and siphoned whipped cream. Set menu €17 (lunch), plates €6-12 (dinner). // A.S.