Œnosphère (Strasbourg)

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With Benoît Hecker as their ringleader, a group of sulfite-free musketeers run this bar à vin with an indie winemaker playlist. Displayed on untreated pinewood shelves, you’ll see some beautiful names (Jouves, Sébille, Reynaud…) and lots of audacious vintages. A big shout out to the young folk who have given Alsace varietals a new lease of life: a white Parcours from La Grange de l’oncle Charles (€6 a glass), Stéphane Wantz and his ennobled Sylvaner (€14.50 a bottle); Julien Albertus who has reloaded the Gewurzt’ as a vin orange for Kumpf et Meyer (€17); or Mathieu Deiss (a descendant of the great Marcel) and his Pierres Sauvages, a heavenly blend of four different Pinots (€12 a bottle). After forking over the corkage fee (+€8 for every bottle consumed in house), grab a seat around the school tables and nibble on well-sourced rustic dishes: terrine from the Ferme Goettelmann (€4.50), a baked tartine with Morbier cheese, smoked sausage and onion confit (€6.80), etc. To end the night, you might even get to explore Ben’s vinyl collection! Small platters €8.80, snacks €1.50-6, tartines €5.60-6.80. // R.deC.

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2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


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