Olio e burro

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After working at La Terra Madre in Paris, Marta Belli and David Gaudou set sail for the Nantes region to open up Olio e Burro – “garlic and butter” in Italian. A bistro for 20 guests with wine menus hanging on the walls and a fine foods corner, where the couple treats everyone to unfussy French-Italian cuisine. The other night: a good terrine combining chicken, pork, sage, bay leaf and pistachios, served with pickled carrots – or stracciatella that spilled over cucumber ribbons and slow-roasted cherry tomatoes; good penne with pesto alla genovese – or a perfect vitello tonnato with slow-cooked veal, a tuna cream that wasn’t too briny, tender eggplant and capers; before a peach poached with thyme nestled against some shortbread, bathing in a syrup made from the poaching liquid and a toasted hazelnut cream. // G.LeP.

FEELING THIRSTY? Organic beer from the Brasserie de Vézelay (€3.80 for 330 ml) and several transalpine wines: a Muscadet from Complémen’Terre (€3.20 a glass), a Tuscan macerated wine from Macchion dei Lupi (€29), etc.

PRICE: À la carte €26-30.

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