The “Bal Café” is no more, long live “Otto”! After a three-month stint with a Japanese pop-up in the café space, Benjamin Perrier (who also owns Peco Peco) just signed a new three-year lease – but now under a Viennese tag. The team hasn’t changed, and the guiding principles are the same (menu of the day at lunch, tapas at night and brunch on the weekends), but there’s a new Austrian leading lady running the kitchen… Lisa Machian (ex-Martin and L’Astrance), who’s sprucing up her homeland’s most familiar recipes with a hearty dose of glam: caramelized root vegetables and curd cheese; incredibly tender braised lamb shoulder, jus and bread dumplings; wiener schnitzel, potatoes and rowan berry jam; and an absolutely insane apfelstrüdel with apples confit and a hearty spoonful of very fresh crème. Don’t miss out on the tantalizing tapas at night (spiced faisselle cheese; beets and feta; smoked trout and labneh…) and the majestic frühstück on the weekends: soft-boiled eggs with Kalamata olive oil, baked ham, rye bread, homemade marmalade, Abondance and herbed faisselle cheeses … Meanwhile, the wine list really hits the nail on the head: Sierra du Sud from the Domaine Gramenon, Babiole from Andrea Calek, Pressoir blanc from Renaud Guettier (€5-6 a glass and €26-36 a bottle). Lunch menu €18-22. Tapas €6-10. Brunch €7-15. // J.G.