If you’re missing the sun and the sea, head to the second floor of Galeries Lafayette Champs-Elysées, where Simon Porte Jacquemus has opened Oursin in collaboration with Caviar Kaspia. After Citron, his sunny café located just a floor below, the darling of the fashion world continues telling Provençal stories in an atmosphere that’s dripping with la dolce vita: whitewashed walls, ecru banquettes, braided wicker chairs, beautiful ceramics, draping ivy, Italian melodies… In the kitchen, you’ll find chef Erica Archambault (ex-Septime and Clamato) sending out southern dishes: delicious fried artichokes with Greek yogurt and lemon zest; incredibly tender grilled octopus with cherry tomatoes, potatoes and a tomato sauce with capers – all sponged up with squid ink bread from Anthony Courteille; plus an incredible chocolate ganache with yogurt sorbet and blueberries for dessert. Our conclusion? This is definitely one fashionable Oursin (French for sea urchin) that’s likely to keep stinging for more than one season… // C.C.
FEELING THIRSTY? Both conventional and natural Mediterranean wines: a Côtes-de-Provence rosé from the Château de Berne (€8 a glass), Livia, a gourmet Greek white (€40 a bottle), an orange wine from Abbazia San Giorgio in Pantelleria (€85)…
PRICE: Plates €11-40, desserts €12-15.