Guillaume Monjuré, Best cuisinier Guide 2013
The departure of Guillaume Monjuré – the incredible chef of the much-missed Palégrié in Lyon (2013-2015) – continues to upset Lyon and elate the Vercors region. Surrounded by the resources of his new lands (mushrooms, flowers and berries), this all-terrain chef still embellishes what he deems to be good, always far from the trends and near to the heart. His autumnal Promis Juré menu (€65) began with a Middle Eastern apéro near the fireplace (hummus, chickpea salad and fried fish), which had us feeling drunk with delight: a fragile quenelle of scallops over a light cream infused with oysters; a thin slice of pork ear cake served with an onion broth, buckwheat and John Dory; adorable pan-fried ravioli stuffed with porcini mushrooms; Arctic char caught locally in an Alpine lake, steamed and surfing on a bed of beurre blanc sauce, cranberries, grey trout roe and a celery purée… All followed by small portions of incredible things with autumnal colors: a chewy venison fillet with a grand veneur sauce, pumpkin purée with chestnuts, chanterelles and bottarga; an ultra-delicate venison tartare with cacao nibs, pickled butternut squash and marigolds; a miniature tartlet of pumpkin cooked over embers; a serious mushroom Paris-Brest; before the final slap to the face, a smoked chocolate ganache refreshed with a black trumpet mushroom ice cream pierced with chocolate and charcoal tuiles. In the glasses: Argile, a white vin-des-Allobroges from the Domaine des Ardoisières (€10 a glass), a Beaujolais from Métras and Ducroux (€45 and €42 the bottle) or Florine, a Côtes-du-Jura white from Ganevat (€140). Menus €45-58-88, kids €16. // A.S.