Katia and Tatiana Levha, Le Guide Fooding 2019’s Women of the year
Even though we assumed this restaurant hotel was forever doomed to repeat the classic continental breakfast routine, Adrien Gloaguen, the owner of these 40 bedrooms, decided to double down on his bistronomic bet by inviting the Levha sisters’ gang (Le Servan and Double Dragon, that’s them!) to this Dorothée Meilichzon-designed space (rosewood tables, steel columns, brass, honeycombed tiling, herringbone wood flooring). Ravishing brasserie cuisine was served à la carte the day we went for lunch: fines de claire oysters topped with lemon and fresh cilantro (€9 for three, €17 for six); fried hake à la Colbert under a mound of baby lettuce, herbs and peanuts (€25); punchy hand-cut steak tartare with piquillo peppers, celery, lemony mixed greens and matchstick fries (€23); before a more low-key dessert – damson plums pan-fried in syrup (€5), or a cookie with two scoops of ice cream (€10). To quench your thirst, there’s an excellent Melon from the Domaine de la Cadette in Burgundy, a red Sainte-Baume from the Domaine Les Terres Promises (€5 a glass), or a VDF from the Southwest produced by Nicolas Grosbois (€28 a bottle). À la carte €31-53. // V.V.