Papillon

Best Coming Out of 2017

Make way! All the crowned heads of high gastronomy parade inside Christophe Saintagne’s restaurant, who was Alain Ducasse’s former protégé and the man responsible for the Plaza Athénée’s third Michelin star. But anyone is welcome inside this Scandinavian-inspired space (light wood, camel-toned leather banquettes, ceramic tableware) to savor his classy French cuisine. The day we went for lunch, once the who’s who had been accounted for (Pierre Hermé was spotted in the dining room), the recital began (€38): crisp cauliflower with cumin, feta and olives; incredible grilled red mullet paired with citron and perfectly golden potatoes; before a sublime fig tart with walnuts and fromage frais. At night, the tasting menu (three mains, cheese and dessert) takes things up another notch: smoked pollack with grilled peppers and tarragon; slow-roasted veal with caramelized eggplant and cilantro; chicken roasted with spices, cabbage cooked in vin jaune and apple… A special mention for the very efficient and friendly staff. // J.-N.M.

FEELING THIRSTY? Head sommelier Thibaut Martin fills glasses from his hand-selected wines, a mix of the great vintages and natural wines: a Beaujolais white from the Domaine des Marrans (€10 a glass), a Burgundy red from Sarnin-Berrux (€12), a Morgon from the Foillards (€56 a bottle), a Chablis from Thomas Pico (€88), a Beaufort Champagne (€128)…

PRICE: Menus €30-38 (lunch) and €75 (dinner, food and wine pairings +€36), à la carte €54-68.