Pavillon aux Pivoines
The best family-run spot in Little China! Much like the triplets of Belleville, the Zhao girls (Liney, Yi and Yiline) are really shaking things up at their parents’ exuberant restaurant that’s decorated like a golden pagoda, with a long aquarium and kitsch murals to boot. Far from the remixed Chinese food of the moment, this trio gracefully prepares the often-clichéd classics of pan-Asian cuisine. Picked up with chopsticks the day we went for lunch: six slender hand-folded gyoza stuffed with a tasty pork filling; a delightful plate composed of brilliantly stewed bo luc lac beef, black sticky rice and freshly grated carrots, lettuce and radish; before a very fresh pineapple-mango salad topped with mango sorbet, whipped cream and crumbled homemade shortbread. // A.A.
FEELING THIRSTY? La Cave de Belleville has selected a few clever wines, including a Loire white from Jérémie Huchet (€6 a glass) and La Baronne, a red Corbières (€26 a bottle). Otherwise there’s the IPA version of Tsingtaobeer (€4.50 for 330 ml).
PRICE: Appetizers €5, mains €12, rice €2, dessert €6.50. Kids’ plate €8.