As the flagship bistro of Nice seafood, Peixes sure flies the Crespo flag (Bar des Oiseaux, Bistrot d’Antoine…). Expect an incredible terrace, a bar buzzing with action, white mosaic tiles and high wind warnings for the small plates whipped up by a small crew who remain as placid as they are efficient. For us, the day we went for lunch: delicious anchovy butter (provided free of charge) with Maître Pierre bread; salt cod and onion acras just like in Portugal, fried fresh and served with mixed greens; a devilishly good tuna tartare with a wakame coulis and crisp wasabi peas – or grouper ceviche with tiger’s milk, strawberry jus, strawberries, artichoke purée, hazelnuts and chili; octopus breaded in cornflour and served in newspaper, Iberian style – or the same beast stewed in red wine, with gnocchi under a smoking bell. Followed (or not) by a chocolate and peanut nougatine dessert, which wasn’t anything special to write home about. // G.D.
FEELING THIRSTY? Organic L’Azuréenne beer (€4.50), Côtes-de-Provence rosé from the Château La Gordonne (glasses €4-5), Amphibolite, a Muscadet from Jo Landron (€35 a bottle) or a Beaujolais from Jean-Paul Brun (€31).
PRICE: Plates €9-20.