Peixes (fish in Portuguese) is the salty promise of Armand Crespo, a serial Nice restaurateur who already runs Le Bistrot d’Antoine and Le Bar des Oiseaux. The pitch? A Mediterranean dining room (mermaids painted on the walls, turquoise chairs, multicolored mosaic tiles) for delicious seafood dishes! Take the other day, our lunch that was served in a hustle and bustle similar to the fish market: a dozen Fines de Claire N°3 oysters with a good homemade lemon-Timut peppercorn butter (€30); a delicate swordfish carpaccio swimming in a mandarine vinaigrette, whipped up with slivers of yuzu (€13); a stunning meager ceviche pimped out with corn nuts and served with a chilled sweet potato purée (€14) – perfect with the floral cuvée Kintet from the Domaine Kubler (€4.50 a glass); and a heartwarming fig compote dolloped atop a light yogurt-verbena mousse (€7). In the glasses, it’s all clean: a sublime glass of Bérêche & fils Champagne (€11 a glass), a natural Chenin, cuvée Mozaïk, from Pithon-Paillé (€34 a bottle), a Melon from Bourgogne, a tender cuvée Amphibolite from Jo Landron (€35)… À la carte €30-40. No reservations. // G.LeP.