Best chef locavore Guide 2014
After some Olympic training under athletes Senderens and Barbot, Perche-native Guillaume Foucault came back home and placed the bar very high in downtown Vendôme. Where, at his restaurant Pertica (“perch” in Latin), a mineralist loft (a Corten steel façade, dark tiles, cut stones), he orchestrates a remarkable and joyful score. The day we went for lunch, on the €48 menu: incredible white asparagus with black pollack bottarga, crumbled dried apricot and a grapefruit jelly; a porcelain-like slow-cooked yellow pollack, with a lactic lettuce soup, sweet onions and a shot of lemon purée; perfect roasted duck breast with ribbons of celeriac, black radish purée and a blueberry cream; before an absolutely incredible cigarette cookie with citron sorbet, chocolate-yuzu cream and toasted oak flakes. As for the bottles, Quy Phi, the sommelier, sources the best Loire wines: a white Vendômois Vieilles Vignes from Patrice Colin (€7 a glass), a red Solognot from Claude Courtois (€55 a bottle), etc. Menus €25 (weekday lunch), €48, €75 and €110. // A.A.