Pertica (Vendôme)

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At Pertica (“perch” in Latin), a mineralist loft that combines a Corten steel façade, cut stone and a spider-like chandelier, chef Guillaume Foucault (Pascal Barbot’s former at L’Astrance) puts a sublime twist on ingredients from his native region – the Perche region, to be specific…. The night we went, the seven-course menu (€90) featured all of the following: a foie gras royale with a seaweed and horseradish jelly; rustic heirloom tomatoes from Epuisay served raw and pan-fried, with local oak honeydew and a farm-fresh whipped cream infused with rum and rosemary; a meaty fine percheronne oxtail (the local bovine appellation whose specifications were worked out by the chef himself and eight cattle breeders) cooked in broth and then shredded, seasoned with lovage, spring onions and cacao nibs; delicate ravioli concealing an egg yolk, walnuts, spring garlic and an incredible goat’s milk jam; leeks cooked for 12 hours and sprinkled with tansy; pieces of Solognot lamb that’ll knock your socks off, cooked for 12 hours, with new carrots and wild cherries; before a lively poached nectarine hidden under a field mint cappuccino (€7). // G.B.

FEELING THIRSTY? The Loire Valley is very dear to sommelier Quy Phi: a Vendôme red from Patrice Colin (€7 a glass), a Tours Chenin from Jacky Blot (€10), a pear cider from the Domaine Les Capriades (€38 a bottle), a Pinot-d’Aunis from the Domaine du Bois-Freslon (€42), a Coteaux-du-Loir white from the Domaine de Bellivière (€75)…

PRICE: Menus €48 and €90 (food and wine pairings +€37 and €60).

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2021 Le Fooding guide frontcover


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