Restaurant Pertinence in ParisPertinence (Paris) - © Guillaume Lechat

Located between Medef and Ecole-Militaire, a wave of wooden slats rises up from the walls, tickling the ceiling and appearing as benches, circling around the copper serving hatch where a lively duo performs their show. Together both in their private lives and in the Pertinence kitchens, Ryunosuke Naito from Japan (ex-Taillevent and Meurice) and Kwen Liew from Malaysia (ex-Antoine) serve delightful French cuisine to eighteen guests seated on Tulip chairs. Chock-full of military inspiration and zapped through the heart with bistro flair, the lunch menu is worth the expense (€38): knightly sashimi-esque raw flame-charred mackerel, watercress purée, grilled sucrine lettuce hearts, and a piercing hibiscus crumble; tender poached meagre fillet, celery purée, a mussel jus and mussels sautéed in butter; before lightly sweetened citrus fruits (flavorful orange and pomelo slices, lemon sorbet, meringues and cocoa nib tuiles). At night, we hesitate between the butter-roasted veal sweetbread pie lined with peppery bacon and seasoned with a veal jus, bone marrow and citrusy spinach, or the pastoral roasted Landes lamb…. Working alone in the dining room, Daby Traoré irrigates the glasses with wines like a mineral Côteaux-du-Giennois from the Domaine de Montbenoit (€8 a glass) or a powerful Corsican Patrimonio from Yves Leccia (€55 a bottle). Lunch menu options €29 and €38, 6-course menu €85, à la carte €63-90. // Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier

Getting there

Restaurant Pertinence
29, rue de l'Exposition
TEL: +33 1 45 55 20 96
Subway: La Tour-Maubourg, Ecole Militaire