Having never struck out on his own, Matthieu Levy (ex-Faggio) has finally plucked up the courage and moored his Petit Navire in Belleville! His vessel? A beautiful joint (a bar lined with old model sailboats, wooden banquettes, menus bearing the colors of maritime flags), where the crew sails under the orders of their Canadian captain Lily Hu – ex-Ellsworth. The day we went, she embarked us on a maiden Mediterranean voyage via a striking lunch menu: an eruptive mozzarella topped with shaved fennel, wild herbs and crushed Kalamata olives; incredibly tender slow-roasted lamb with pan-fried figs and radicchio, on an island of golden polenta encircled with a pan reduction sauce and labneh; before a heartwarming dessert of rice pudding sprinkled with crushed pistachio and grapefruit. At night, there are tapas and big plates served à la carte (sardine acras, scallop bouillabaisse, roast chicken with pommes Anna and harissa-spiced aioli…) and on Sundays, there’s self-serve Mediterranean brunches with fresh juice, tabbouleh, hummus, roasted eggplant, etc. // Aïtor Alfonso
FEELING THIRSTY? There’s not a ton of cargo but great bottles fill the hold: an anti-scurvy Catalan red from Partida Creus (€6 a glass), peaceful waters of a Picpoul from Opi Aquí (€35 a bottle), a captain Morgon from Damien Coquelet (€30)…
PRICE: Set menus €18-22 (weekday lunch), à la carte €25-40 (dinner and Saturday lunch). Brunch €26 (Sunday).