Pierre Sang in Oberkampf
Le Fooding Guide’s 2012 Best comptoir
We were delighted for another chance to play the guessing game at Pierre Sang’s naughtiest address, seated comfortably around the lone and lonnnnnng wooden table-bar with views of the stainless-steel kitchen. The concept? Blind menus – so you’ll only find out what you’ve just eaten once you’ve finished your plate! So what was on our three-course €25 lunchtime menu? We nearly identified the hake, which was working in tandem with a broccoli purée, crisp corn, peas in wasabi, apple and arugula; tender pork chops camouflaged in a cream of carrots, roasted red cabbage, pickled red onion and the chef’s signature ssamjang sauce (we couldn’t figure out that last detail!); before a delicious apple and cider dessert, prepared as a baba au rhum, a sorbet and a jelly, underneath a cloud of cardamom-spiced whipped cream. Outstanding! // J.-N.F.
FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wine: a Pays-d’Oc red from Le Clos des Centenaires (€7 a glass); a Côtes-de-Nuits-Villages from Dominique Laurent (€55 a bottle); Amateus Bobi, a Saumur-Champigny from Sébastien Bobinet (€45); and for the rest, you’ll have to guess!
PRICE: Menus €20-35 (lunch) and €39 (dinner).