Pilgrim (Paris)

© Matthieu Jauniau-Dallier

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Every week at Pilgrim, a handful of well-informed travelers come for a taste of Japanese chef Terumitsu Saito’s cuisine (who used to work at Le Grand Véfour and the Mandarin Oriental). Expect blonde wood furniture, opaline light fixtures, a chrome-laden open kitchen and somewhat stiff staff: it’s serious business here… Our verdict, the day we went for lunch? The €45 menu was truly delightful: exquisite amberjack tataki in perfect harmony with kohlrabi marinated with beetroot; incredible Cantal pork chops grilled over binchotan wood charcoal, with an umami-esque duck consommé and tender miso and black garlic eggplant; before a fabulous chilled nougat served with a pear and maple syrup tarte Tatin that melted in the mouth. At night, the chef sends his loyal followers on a simultaneous journey – eg.: Normand steak tartare with an eggplant mousseline, shallots and fried potatoes; lobster and veal sweetbread chimaki; grilled amberjack head and a mushroom mousse… // A.D.

FEELING THIRSTY? A pricey selection, where you’ll find a few gems: a Mâcon-Chaintré from Philippe Valette (€16 a glass), a Morgon from Lapierre (€55), a Riesling from the Domaine Marcel Deiss (€69), a Cornas from the Domaine Courbis (€120 a bottle)…

PRICE: Tasting menus €45 and €70 (lunch), €80 (dinner).

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