For a classic bistro experience in 2019, rush over to Polissons, the sophisticated Scandi-chic spot from Romain Lamon (ex-Ritz)! The day we went, we kicked lunch off with some sublime cuttlefish tagliatelle with lardons and Parmesan – a recipe with Piége influences, enriched with a runny egg yolk, scallions and a rich squid ink cream (€14). It was followed by a deboned and stuffed half-quail, presented in cylindrical slices in its jus de cuisson, with baby carrots, turnips confit and corn-dog-style thighs (fried in corn flour), with a tzatziki dipping sauce on the side (€25) – a true work of art! And lastly, a classic chocolate, hazelnut and caramel éclair for dessert, a true winner (€10). It’s also worth noting that this cheeky chef makes his own bread now, and serves beautiful shared cuts of meat and fish at night and Saturday lunchtime: turbot meunière (€70), stuffed pigeon (€60)… To quench your thirst, place your trust in Julia Sfez: a Bourgogne-Aligoté from Pataille (€6 a glass), a Touraine-Ambroise red from Bonnigal-Bodet (€28 a bottle), a Saint-Joseph from Chatagnier (€39), etc. Set menu €17-21 (weekday lunch), menu €65 (dinner), à la carte €46-50. // G.D.