Polissons (Paris)

© Polissons

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After sharpening his blades on a heavy-duty grinder (under Éric Fréchon at the Bristol) and simmering in the kitchens of Le Richer, Romain Lamon decided he no longer wanted to play second fiddle. So since 2017, the thirty-something has been running things at the Scandi-chic Polissons (timeworn hardwood floors, blue and white tones, translucent suspension lamps), caring for the most demanding appetites from behind the tiled bar of his open kitchen. The night we went it was hot in Paris so the menu went all tapas on us for the occasion: a striking red tomato gazpacho with pine nuts and basil sprouts; excellent arancini with crispy breading and a tender center, sitting in a tomatoey ragù beneath grated Parmesan; heady, multicolored, marinated peppers over arugula pesto; tender roasted octopus in a fluffy aioli; before a tantalizing strawberry pavlova with meringue, cherry sorbet and marigold leaves. // M.J.-D.

FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wines selected by Julia Sfez: a Muscadet from Jo Landron (€6 a glass), an Arbois white from Jérôme Arnoux (€32 a bottle), a Morgon-Côte-du-Py from Jean-Marc Burgault (€40)…

PRICE: Menu €17-21 (lunch), €65 (dinner), à la carte €47-50.

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