Brace yourself for this cosmopolitan wine bar in the 9th arrondissement! Raised on natural wines at Bones and Korus, the Australian-born Jess Hodge teamed up with former adman Mathieu Grichois to open up this bistro/bar (graphic tiling, retro suspension lamps, a luminescent bar) that runs like a well-oiled machine. In the kitchen you’ll find Canadian chef Jordan Robinson (ex-Frenchie) lighting up his lucky guests’ taste buds, like the night we went: spicy chicken wings with a paprika and Cajun spice dipping sauce; perfectly pan-fried broccoletti tucked into an ecstatic miso sauce sprinkled with sunflower seeds; duck hearts with a fine coffee glaze licked by the flames of bichotan charcoal; or even an outstanding chicken supreme with a Robuchon-esque parsnip purée and a rosemary reduction, served with good bread baked by Thierry Breton. All that before a big scoop of chocolate ganache with chili and fleur de sel for the fatal finale. Yum! There’s a nice lunch menu during the week too – eg: lettuce heart, smoked ricotta and croutons; ras-el-hanout-spiced breaded pork shoulder with a rosemary jus; and a lemon curd meringue tart. // G.LeP.
FEELING THIRSTY? Place your trust in Jess, aka the “winearoo”: a macerated Drôme white from the Virets (€7 a glass), a Sicilian rosé from Cornelissen (€42 a bottle) or an Australian red from Tom Shobbrook (€66), just a few of the big names from the international naturalist selection.
PRICE: Set menus €19-22 (weekday lunch), small plates €4-14 (dinner).
