Square oak tables, white porcelain light fixtures, succulents that fit right in… At Prairial, the carefully manicured setting nicely complements Gaëtan Gentil’s serious, meticulously prepared cuisine. As a disciple of Jean-François Piège and Emmanuel Renaut, the thirty-something chef is a true pro, and the “small” €35 lunch menu only goes to prove it: asparagus from Mallemort and Star of Bethlehem (a type of flower), both served cooked and raw over a redcurrant and thyme sabayon; a delicious ravioli filled with braised and shredded veal cooked in white wine, with a carrot and onion brunoise, floating over a house sauce Albufera; line-caught whiting steamed to perfection, plus an emulsified praline fumet, lemon paste, sorrel and peas; before a winning dessert combining a sweet clover ice cream, yuzu cream, a chocolate crumble, tuile and cream. As for the bottles, listen to the attentive Céline Boinon’s advice: a Sauvignon from Vini Viti Vinci or a Beaujolais Vieilles Vignes from Xavier Benier (€8 a glass), a Beaujolais-Villages from France Gonzalvez (€39 a bottle) or a superb Bourgogne-Aligoté from Pacalet (€66). Menus €35 (weekday lunch), €59 (except Friday and Saturday), €76 and €94. // A.S.