Since doing the rounds on Parisian terraces and gallery openings, shucking oysters from his vending tricycle, Alexis Portmann has now cast his anchor right near the Musée d’Orsay. From behind the stylish, long bar, this lover of salty seafood treats sends out platters of the day (Utah Beach oysters from Jean-Pierre Guernier, plump Belons from the Maison Lucas, etc.), smoked fish from the Île de Groix AND fresh fish prepared by chef Maxime Bertrand (ex-Boulud in New York), all to a soundtrack of old Neil Young and Led Zep records. Caught in our nets, the night we went: stunning raw scallops, toasted buckwheat and Sarawak peppercorn (€5 each, €14 for three); extremely fresh haddock rillettes from JC David with chervil and dill (€12); or even some insanely delicious pollack gravlax electrocuted by pickled vegetables (€12). On Thursdays, it’s full sail ahead with small seasonal plates: crab rolls (€11), whelks with sumac-spiced mayonnaise (€8), oysters (€1 each)… Savor it all while digging into a short but striking wine playlist: Pinot noir from Bernhard (€8 a glass), Chablis from the Domaine Alexandre (€35 a bottle), etc. Tapas €6 to €12. Oysters €22 to €42 for a dozen.