Providence

In their bistro clad with antique furniture, owners Caroline and Antoine Piechaud send out good vibes at lunch (avocado toast, salads…), before entrusting the kitchen to some itinerant chefs in the evening. Last May, Tamir Nahmias and Lina Bou took over from Céline Pham, and before Marion May and Christophe Almodóvar, it was the Argentine adventurer Tomas Scarpetti (ex-Francis Mallmann in Buenos Aires) who pulled a contortionist number in this small space. That evening, good things fired out of the kitchen: a flavorful bonito glazed in whey and bombarded with fresh peas; plump rabbit saddle subtly coaxed by chermoula over a sunchoke velouté; before a providential finale of pear tucked into chocolate cream and sprinkled with genmaicha tea. // N.K.

FEELING THIRSTY? Natural wines: Calacrius from Puglia in red and white (€4 a glass), Tète Blanche, an organic Loire wine from Nicolas Grosbois (€24 a bottle), La Bonne Pioche, a Beaujolais-Villages from Michel Guignier (€30)… or an excellent Allpress coffee (€1.50 an espresso).

PRICE: Plates €6-13 (lunch), €5-15 (dinner).