To bring to life his new spot dressed up with modern style (a nameless shopfront, timeworn rafters, a show-stopping open kitchen, mismatched furniture), Loïc Martin (Martin Boire et Manger) has teamed up with the talented chef Peter Orr (ex-Au Passage). The latter whipped up an effective bistro-inspired menu the day we went for lunch: flash-seared octopus wrapped in lardo di Colonnata, over a bed of Borlotti beans with a parsley purée (€14); pan-seared monkfish with cubed and roasted (but overly crisp) celeriac covered in a sweet celery emulsion, served with some mighty fine bread from Ten Belles (€27); before a comforting rice pudding with grapefruit slices, illuminated by a slender quenelle of toasted rice-flavored ice cream (€8). And to cleanse the palette? There are around 40 organic-certified vintages to explore: a translucent Pinot noir from the Domaine d’Edouard (€7 a glass), a lovely Sylvaner from Vincent Fleith (€6) or an upstanding Chenin from Philippe Marchais (€40 a bottle). Lunch menu €25. À la carte €43-55. // G.L.P.