At Robert, bottles of wine parade across the coppery bar, as the plates dance on the light wood tables… And what plates they are! Full of subtleness and creativity ever since the British chef Daniel Morgan (the former chef at Salt) took over the kitchen. The night we went, we had a magical dashi broth sprinkled with Mexican truffles; an incredible taco-style perilla leaf topped with fried pig head, brightened by a quince sriracha sauce and puffed rice; a stunning Provençal-style bonito (cooked in the oven with tomatoes, peppers, onions and capers) seasoned with sorrel and pickled savory; explosively flavorful pollack prepared using the ikejime method and served with mandarine-infused hollandaise sauce and fingerling potatoes straight from another planet; striking roasted free-range chicken thigh with chard, mole and a preserved egg yolk; before a delicious passion fruit pavlova sprinkled with minted sea lettuce. Indecisive diners should be comforted to know that Daniel also serves a six-course tasting menu… So don’t waste any time – run! // Djahane Sasson
FEELING THIRSTY? Highly natural bottles: a Savoy red from Maxime Dancoine and Guillaume Lavie (€7 a glass), a pet’ nat’ from the Joussets in Tours (€9), a Pineau-d’Aunis from Brendan Tracey in Vendôme (€33 a bottle), an Hérault white blend from Le Mas Foulaquier (€56)…
PRICE: Plates €7-22, menu €38 (6 courses).